An Insider’s Guide to the Cabot Trail: What to Do in Every Stop Along the Way 

There are endless ways to explore Cape Breton’s world-renowned Cabot Trail. Some people tackle it in one action-packed eight-hour day, while others spend a full week exploring every hidden beach, hiking trail and local suggestion they can find. 

As someone who grew up in Sydney, I’ve had the privilege of experiencing the Cabot Trail throughout my life, not just as a visitor. Between weekends spent at friends’ cottages in Ingonish and Cheticamp, camping trips, day adventures, and frequent time in Baddeck when I was younger, I’ve had the chance to experience each stop in different seasons and at different stages of life. The Cabot Trail was never a tourist destination; it was simply part of every summer. Over the years, I’ve collected favourite shops, hidden gems, and opinions on what’s truly worth pulling over. 

For a first visit, I recommend allocating three to four days to the entire Cabot Trail and prefer driving it counter-clockwise. Maybe it’s just me, but if you have the option to start in Baddeck instead of heading straight to Ingonish from Sydney, I highly suggest beginning your journey there. It’s scenic, dramatic, and full of water views. Plus, you get the perk of exploring Baddeck. 

Stop One: Baddeck

Baddeck is where many people begin their Cabot Trail adventure, and it’s worth taking your time here rather than treating it as just a starting point. 

First stop? The Highwheeler Café. Their sandwiches are incredible, but the real reason I stop every time is for the spider cookies. They’re absolutely massive and worth bringing extras for on the road. 

Spend some time wandering through the village itself. Baddeck has one of those quaint village atmospheres where walking down the main street and popping into local shops can turn into an entire afternoon. 

If you have some extra time and enjoy waterfalls, Uisge Ban Falls is worth the detour. It’s a relatively leisurely hike through the woods leading to a beautiful waterfall. 

For supper, I love the Yellow Cello, or perhaps you’d like to try a beer flight at the local Big Spruce Brewery. If you’re looking for somewhere to stay or simply another place to sit down for a nice meal, the Inverary Resort is also a beautiful option.

If being on the water is up your alley, various charter options allow you to enjoy a sail around the scenic and UNESCO-designated Bras d’Or Lake, the inland sea and tidal estuary that forms the heart of Cape Breton Island. Spanning over 1,100 km2, it is a mix of sparkling salt and fresh water, surrounded by forested hills, and has become a sanctuary for sailing, paddling, and wildlife alike. 

If sailing isn’t your thing but you still want to experience the water, North River kayak tours nestled along the scenic shores of St Ann’s Bay, are another option. More effort than a day sail, but just as dazzling nonetheless. 

Drive to Ingonish: The Stops I Never Skip. 

The stretch between Baddeck and Ingonish has some roadside stops worth slowing down for. 

My absolute favourite need-to-stop, I-don’t-care-how-much-of-a-time-crunch-we’re-in, stop? Cabotto Chocolates. 

It’s a local art gallery-turned-phenomenal chocolate shop that I have had the pleasure of stopping at, or forcing other people to stop at, for years now. Located inside a renovated church, it’s full of local treasures and charm. If you miss the sign, you definitely won’t miss the giant coloured pencils outside marking the parking lot.

There’s also the Clucking Hen bakery, which offers a quick stop for baked goodies (my mother is partial to a classic Cape Breton oat cake), and the Glass Artisan’s Shop. Even if you aren’t buying anything, browsing is an experience in itself. Wandering through and seeing the stunning handmade pieces can leave you in awe. 

Stop Two: Ingonish

Once you arrive in Ingonish, you have officially entered my favourite section of the Cabot Trail. For such a tiny village, I could personally spend a solid week there and still not get bored. 

Ingonish has quaint restaurants, camping, glamping, hikes, and some of the best beaches in Nova Scotia, in my humble opinion. 

For accommodations, the Blue Bayou Resort are a unique stay if you want something a little different from traditional hotels or camping. The domes are fully open to the sky at night, and the Blue Bayou has paddleboards and kayaks available for use. If camping in a tent is your choice, I’ve always loved Broad Cove campground. 

If time permits, and hiking is on your list, Franey Mountain is one of the best hikes in the area. The climb can be challenging, but the view at the top is absolutely breathtaking. 

Another, more accessible, is the Middle Head Trail by the Keltic Lodge. It’s more leisurely than Franey and still has coastal views, just not quite as dramatic. There are dozens of hikes littered throughout the Ingonish/Neil’s Harbour area, and after 26 years, I am still working my way through all of them. 

For a completely accessible mountain-and-ocean view, the gondola at Cape Smokey is available year-round, so you still get the incredible scenery without committing to a full-blown hike. 

In the morning, the Periwinkle Café is a great breakfast-and-coffee shop, though I also love the Coastal for a classic breakfast you can never go wrong with. 

Another absolute must: a beach day. The beaches in Ingonish cannot be skipped. 

I’ll say something slightly controversial here: if you don’t care about waterfalls, North Bay Beach is better than Black Brook Beach. On a nice day, the water and sand can almost trick you into thinking you’re lounging somewhere down south and not on Cape Breton Island, as long as you ignore the lack of palm trees. 

After the beach, stop at the Groovy Goat for handmade Gelato, and perhaps browse their handmade soaps and skincare products. Of course, there’s also their donation-based petting zoo, which has honestly been one of my favourite stops since 2019.

For something unexpected, head to nearby Neils Harbour to go ziplining. It’s fun and run by Mountain Pine Adventures, who are committed to making sure everyone has a good time, including those terrified of heights.  

If you are seeking an incredible dinner full of seafood, and one of the most beautiful places to stay in the area, The Markland in Dingwall is absolutely worth the drive. Between the ocean views and fresh seafood, it’s one of those places that feels like a destination on its own. 

One experience I recommend to absolutely everyone is whale watching with Ingonish Whale Watching Scenic Tours down by the wharf. I had the pleasure of going last summer, and Jake knew the water incredibly well. Depending on the day, visitors can spot seals, sea turtles and pilot whales. I was fortunate enough to see a blue whale, which is rare in the area, and it was a true once-in-a-lifetime sight. 

Stop Three: Cheticamp

After driving around the top of Cape Breton, you’ll find the views become unbeatable. Even after growing up in Cape Breton, I still pull over for a picture every single time.  

This is also why I recommend driving the trail counter-clockwise. Coming through the Trail just before Cheticamp, you’re greeted with the iconic image of the Cabot Trail meeting the ocean. Once you see it in person, you completely understand why it’s the focal point of nearly every postcard. 

In Cheticamp itself, there is, of course, the famous Skyline trail, a relatively flat walk through the woods that takes about 45 minutes and ends with a stunning view of the water and mountains. However, this year, due to popularity, they are implementing online time slot booking for the Skyline Trail. So, if that isn’t possible, I recommend the Salmon Pools, Blueberry Mountain (beware of wildlife) and the hidden gem of Gypsum Mines, which is an abandoned and flooded gypsum quarry, which gives the water a unique blue, but please, for the love of god, do not jump off the cliff. 

As a preteen, I was fortunate to have a best friend with a cottage on Cheticamp Island, so I spent a lot of time in the area. Le Gabriel and the Evangeline are great places to eat, but the most iconic spot is Mr. Chicken. Nothing beats a day on the beach at her cottage, taking an afternoon nap, and waking up to her dad coming home with takeout from THE Mr. Chicken. 

If you’re looking for somewhere a little fancier but with a glorious ocean view, L’Abri is phenomenal; they have fresh seafood and gluten-free options. Overall, one of my favourite restaurants on the Cabot Trail. Throughout the town of Cheticamp, there are tons of little gift shops scattered everywhere, and a rich rug-hooking history. Before heading out the morning of your departure, it is highly recommended to ensure a stop at the Boulangerie (AuCoin’s Bakery), where fresh bread is a highly sought-after (and for good reason) commodity. 

Stop 4: Margaree

The drive from Cheticamp back down through Margaree is amazing. Despite there somehow being what feels like 30 Margarees, each one is just as stunning as the last. 

If you think it’s beautiful in the summer, words can’t describe the colours in late September and early October. 

There are also a few honourable mentions in this area. If it’s summer, tubing on the Margaree River with Live Life in Tents is a fun, chill way to spend the afternoon. If a waterfall hike is where your heart lies, Egypt Falls is relatively quick, although pretty steep on the way back. One word of advice: bring bug spray. 

Other activities include fly fishing, which is big in Margaree, spending the evening, or listening to live music at the barn. If you happen to drive past the Lakes Campground, there is nothing wrong, at any age, to pull over for a Go Kart race. If you have time for one thing, I recommend the Dancing Goat Cafe for lunch. full of baked goods and phenomenal sandwiches. My go-to for the last 12 years now has been the avocado BLT on porridge bread, and it has yet to disappoint. 

Closing

The best part of the Cabot Trail is that no two trips ever look the same. One visit might be all hiking and camping, while another revolves around beaches, gift shops, and nice dinners. That’s part of the magic of growing up so close to the Cabot Trail; every ride felt a little different, especially depending on the season. So take your time, pull over more often than you planned, stop at places with handmade signs, and don’t be afraid to make a few detours. Some of the best parts are usually the places you never intended to stop at in the first place. 

Guest Contributor, Annie MacCoy

Annie MacCoy is a Digital Marketing student at NSCC with a passion for storytelling, tourism, and content creation. Originally from Sydney, Nova Scotia and now based in Halifax, she enjoys combining creativity with strategy to develop engaging content and bring brands and experiences to life.

Find Annie on LinkedIn